The night train to Sapa. Our trip to Sapa was miserable, in a train car with a tourgroup that I think might have been the Chinese Olympic Chain Smoking Team. We didn't sleep much. The ride back looked grim too - we heard a clamour in the hall, and opened the door to discover another Chinese tour guide hollering into an electric bullhorn. However, she must have been telling the group to keep quiet and smoke outside between cars because we had a great sleep on the way back.